How to Teach Whoa
Standing still is one of the hardest things for our bird dog athletes to do. These dogs are bred to run and hunt game, but to develop finesse and good manners in the bird field, that natural drive needs to be channeled and guided. Having an unfailing stop is one of the most valuable skills we can teach them.
We believe training should be simple and clear so the dog can learn without confusion. The whoa post allows us to provide exactly that—it creates a point of contact on the flank that simply means “stop.” Many cues are given on the neck even before formal training begins. By teaching “whoa” on a separate contact point—the flank—we give it a single, unmistakable meaning: stop and stand still.
Preparation: Developing a Composed and Learning Mindset First
Cultivating a composed mindset is one of our primary early goals. Dogs must be composed enough to think clearly through training scenarios and physically able to stand still. A reactive mindset is not a receptive, learning mindset.
We begin developing the ability to stand still before teaching the formal “whoa” cue. We practice this by asking dogs to stand still before exiting a door or crate, holding steady on an agility obstacle, or standing by our side on a loose Command Lead, and basically any opportunity we find in our daily interaction.
To comply with “whoa,” a dog must first have the prerequisite of Composure. This, alongside Confidence and Compliance, is one of our Core Bird Dog Behaviors that we are constantly striving to improve throughout our dog’s life.
The Whoa Post Setup
The whoa post is designed to both cue and guide the desired behavior. It consists of a soft, thick 20–24 foot rope attached to a secure post or stake. There is a swivel snap attached to the end.
We checkcord the dog to a spot near the rope’s end, cue for a recall, and ask them to stand still beside us on a loose lead. We drape the rope over the dog’s back, cross it once under the belly, run it between the front legs, and snap it to the collar—creating a harness effect. We then back away from the post, allowing the dog to follow. When they reach the end, the rope gently cues the flank and stops them. It’s the trainer’s responsibility to manage movement and ensure the dog doesn’t rush into the cue or overstimulate itself.
Introduction Phase: Let Them Get Comfortable
The first step is to introduce the concept and gradually begin shaping the behavior. The first 3–6 posts are about introducing the rope around the flank and getting the dog comfortable. Once the dog walks to the end and feels the cue, we wait for an acknowledgment—like a lick, yawn, or swallow—then walk back, remove the rope, and move on to the next activity or post. We only re-cue if the dog moves its feet. We don’t ask them to hold a specific posture or maintain eye contact—just to stand still.
Association Phase: Building Understanding
Once the dog is comfortable with the new setup, they begin understanding that the cue on the flank means stand still. We are then able to change things up slightly and begin resetting the dog after they have been cued to stand and given an acknowledgment. To reset the dog, we gently put an arm around the chest and one underneath the body to pick the dog up and shift it backward slightly. We adjust the rope to ensure it is completely relaxed and loose around the dog. This creates the scenario where the dog has been cued and continues to stand still with a good amount of slack in the rope.
Setting a dog back on the whoa post rope this way affirms that they should stand still after being cued, even when there appears to be no hint of physical restraint. If they move, we simply re-cue. The goal is for the dog to stand still because they understand the cue and choose to comply—not because they’re being repeatedly cued or physically held.
This is the beginning of the development of real-world impulse control. We are developing impulse control so our dogs can stand composed in an exciting, action-packed hunting field.
As we go through the whoa post practice reps, we also establish a clear release cue through a touch on the head to let the dog know they can move again. This helps keep it clear in the dog’s mind when they should stop and when they can move forward again. Later, we can also overlay a whistle and/or a verbal release cue.
Checking Progress: Knowing When to Move On
We typically complete about 10 whoa post sessions (3 posts each). By the end of ~30 posts, we look for a dog to be capable of standing still on cue with little to no correction.
As we transition from the rope to the e-collar, we can double-check whether we have effectively taught the cue. When we put the e-collar snugly around the dog’s flank, we are essentially cueing that physical point of contact. If our dog is sticky or reluctant to move at first, they’re associating the feel of the strap with the stop cue. This is actually a good thing and an indicator that they understand the mechanical cue.
We then gently guide them forward with a touch on the head and a come-along tug on the checkcord. After a few feet, they work through this and are moving freely again. At that point, we’re ready to begin using the e-collar as a remote stop cue.
Transition to E-collar
As we discussed in our previous Summer Shorts E-collar Intro podcast, now that the desired response to a mechanical cue is developed in a controlled environment, we can transition to a remote cue via e-collar.
We use an e-collar almost like Morse Code to communicate to dogs at a distance. Continuous always means “whoa.” Again, standing still in moments of excitement is a challenge for bird dogs, so we try to keep it as simple as possible. Continuous is for stopping, and Momentary is for movement commands (cues used when you want to keep the dog’s feet moving, such as turning, recall, heeling, etc.).
There is a lot of crossover between the dog and horse training worlds. How you stop a horse is a great example of how to stop a dog. A continuous cue is applied on the reins until the horse comes to a complete stop. If the continuous cue is released before the horse stops, there may only be a slowing of pace — like briefly tapping the brakes on a car. A momentary cue on the reins may indicate a cue to flex the head, turn the horse, or signal a change in gait.
After a successful collar introduction, we practice stopping on a checkcord in a controlled environment, like a quiet mowed yard. From there, we add distractions by working through our obstacle course, changing tempo and keeping our dogs mentally engaged while asking them to think about where their feet are, what speed they’re moving over an agility obstacle, etc. The obstacles help engage the dog’s mind and increase a teamwork habit.
The distraction level is again increased when we introduce the dog to running loose in tall grass, where their mind shifts more toward the excitement of hunting. Only once we are confident in gaining simple stops easily in the field will we introduce steadying on birds using the e-collar. In the last stage of training, all e-collar cues are successfully combined on the neck.
What We’re Teaching: One Command, One Behavior
The Smith Method of Training is built on the principle of teaching a basic concept, then gradually expanding it across environments and situations to mirror real-world challenges.
It’s important to emphasize that teaching the “whoa” cue is not the same as shaping the mindset needed to carry it out. Standing still is both a skill and a mental state that must be nurtured. Without a composed mindset, a dog will likely fail to consistently perform “whoa” no matter how it’s taught. This is amplified when exciting activity is taking place around the dog—as it often will in the bird field. We want to develop a dog that stops and stands still on the first cue and remains in place until given the release cue. In essence…one command achieves one behavior.